Tuesday 1 January 2030

Fur Route

About this blog.

This post is intentionally dated in the future so it appears first...

The HBCo posts that my father Mike (Paul Kelpin) managed are scattered along the oldest fur route into the Western Arctic - originally by canoe brigade following waterways rich with beaver pelts willingly harvested by Indian trappers. We first lived in Cumberland House, the first year-round inland post established by the HBCo. Then, after Mike attended fur school in Montreal, we were posted to Fort Wrigley for a year. The next summer we moved to Arctic Red River (Tsiigehtchic) 1° north of the arctic circle, then the following year to Fort Providence (Zhahti Koe) where we spent four years. For two summers Mike "relieved" post managers at Fort Norman (Tulít'a) and Fort Rae (Behchokǫ̀) having their biennial holidays, and then in 1958 we moved to Fort Chipewyan. Mike left the fur trade and the HBCo in 1967 after 18 years of service.


The following description of the canoe route used to transfer goods and fur west of Cumberland House is from Wikipedia:

From the depot at Cumberland House, Saskatchewan on the lower Saskatchewan River, north up the Sturgeon-Weir River, across Frog Portage to the east-flowing Churchill River which is mostly a chain of lakes, west up the Churchill past the depot on Lac Île-à-la-Crosse, through Peter Pond Lake to Lac La Loche and over the 12-mile Methye Portage to the Clearwater River whose waters reach the Arctic. The Methye Portage, which was first reached by Peter Pond in 1778 ranks with Grand Portage as the most difficult of the major portages. West down the Clearwater River to the Athabasca River at Fort McMurray, north down the Athabasca to the Peace-Athabasca Delta and the depot at Fort Chipewyan, Alberta, at the west end of Lake Athabasca. This was about as far as canoes could reach and return in one season and was the gathering place for furs from the rich Athabasca region and further west. One could continue into poorer country north down the Slave River to the Great Slave Lake and northwest down the Mackenzie River to the Arctic Ocean.

Thursday 25 April 2024

Tex Michael

 

Ernest Bell Michael, age 69, on the government wharf at Fort Chipewyan, Autumn 1959. Mah's Athabasca Café is behind his cap. There is ice on Mission Bay, and the fuel tanks are in place for Herb Stoger to produce the first electricity for the town. Photo by Paul Kelpin. 

While researching parish records from St. Paul the Apostle Anglican Mission in Fort Chipewyan I noticed many entries for Ernest Bell Michael. Then while planning a trip to Fort Chipewyan with McMurray Aviation an advertisement for Johnny Michaels B&B caught my eye. This reminded me of this photo of Tex Michael buried in my father's slides. So who was he? My memory of him and his family is vague. Time for the internet....

According to the Virginia Register of Births Tex was born to parents Eli and Mary Michael on March 18, 1890 in the North River District of Augusta County. The 1900 census lists him as the third of six children in the Michael family living on a freehold farm in Sangerville Precinct of Augusta County. 

Tex's birth entry in the 1890 Virginia Register of Births for Augusta County



Tex's father Eli Jackson Michael was born December 19, 1860 in Highland County, Virginia and died December 18, 1938 in Sangerville, Virginia

Tex's mother Mary Ann "Polly" Armstrong was born December 12, 1862 in Highland County, Virginia and died August 19, 1942 in Spring Creek, Virginia

On his Military Draft Registration on June 5, 1917 Tex states his birthplace as Palo Alto, Virginia. At the time he was working on Tom McGinnis' farm near Bozeman, Montana. 

Tex's Selective Service Draft Registration Card

Palo Alto is in the upper Shenandoah Valley deep in the Appalachians, the oldest mountain range in North America. An unincorporated community in Highland County, Virginia, it is less than a kilometer from the West Virginia border, on the south branch of the south fork headwaters of the Potomac River. Set in Virginia’s smallest and most rural county, Palo Alto is a lonely geographical site. At one time the area had a post office — signifying the existence of some sort of community —today there is no trace of an identifiable town. 

Palo Alto, Tex's birthplace, is on the border between Virginia and West Virginia

Palo Alto is isolated in a narrow valley in a tributary of the Potomac River

Palo Alto today is comprised of these two farms. 

European settlement of this area by Germans and Scots-Irish began around 1745. Tex's great grandparents John and Elizabeth Michael were both born in Highland County in the 1790's, so it is likely their families were original settlers. This area of Virginia had been occupied by Indigenous peoples for at least 12,000 years. During the mid-1700's colonization progressively forced Iroquois and Shawnee tribes further west across the Appalachians. In addition to losing their lands through a series of treaties, their population declined due to introduced diseases, warfare and assimilationist policies. It isn't clear whether any First Nations people were in the area when the Michael family first settled. 

Highland County near Palo Alto, photo by Mike O'Shell

Blue Ridge Mountains south of Palo Alto, photo by Ken Thomas

Tex's next appearance in public records is in the 1926 census of the prairie provinces, married but living alone in Fort Chipewyan. In the 1931 census he is married to Gladys Jemima, age 19, with a son 10 months old. They live in a two-room wooden house in Fort Chipewyan with no radio. He states that he immigrated to Canada in 1917 and is a US citizen with Irish roots. The family attends the Church of England, Tex is a labourer doing odd jobs for total wages of $850 in the previous 12 months, and Gladys is a homemaker. Tex was working on June 1, 1931 (this is a specific question on the census form!). There is also an entry "living off the country" which is scratched over. 

Tex fathered eleven children in his lifetime, two with his first wife and nine with his second wife Gladys. 

Tex Michael died in Edmonton on March 3, 1972, at the age of 81 years. He is fondly remembered by his family as a loving, dedicated, hard-working, independent man with a fascinating history. 

Tex' assertion that he had Irish roots inspired me to look for any genealogical research done on his family. The FamilySearch website identifies his ancestors from Ireland, Scotland, Germany and France, going back as far as the 14th century. Notably, his great great great grandmother Christina Rexroth, born in Gernany in 1736 and immigrated to Virginia, is descended from the von Reckerodt clan: landowners, feudal lords and castle men known for their fierce loyalty to the Landgraviate of Hesse. In 1332, in exchange for their pledge of service the family was given title to the Fürsteneck Castle in the Hessian Rhön Mountains. Tex's lineage can be traced to his 14-greats grandfather Hermann von Reckerodt who was born in 1385. Of course, considering that we have 65,536 14-great grandparents this isn't that significant, but still....

The von Reckerodt family coat of arms shows a shield split or divided lengthways into blue and silver, on which there are two turned away or separated eagle wings in a mixed color. A silver eagle, crowned in gold, rises from the golden crown on the steel-coloured tournament helmet. The helmet covers are in blue and silver. 

When he arrived in Fort Chipewyan word got around that he had worked on a ranch in Texas, so someone nick-named him Tex, and it stuck! 



Saturday 25 November 2023

Jumbo


Jumbo (Russell Frederick) Fraser

Born in Fort Chipewyan December 19, 1937
To parents Roderick Richard and Mable Ellen (Louttit) Fraser
Baptised in St. Paul's by Rev. G. A. Crawley January 23, 1938
Sponsored by godparents Eva Margaret Wylie and Peter Henry Fraser
Died in Fort McMurray November 15, 2022
Buried in Fort Chipewyan November 21, 2022

R.I.P. old friend of many...

Jumbo at the celebration of his niece Teara Fraser opening her airline Iskwew Air at Vancouver Airport on International Women's Day, March 8, 2019. Iskwew, a Cree word for woman, more broadly means “the home fire that blazes in the hearts of the woman.” This term speaks directly to the traditional role and responsibility of Indigenous women to maintain strong social networks within the community to preserve common identity. The name celebrates the first Indigenous woman-owned airline, all women, and all those lifting women. It was chosen as an act of reclamation of womanhood, matriarchal leadership, and language.

Jumbo made many contributions to The North blog. His great memory, love of his home town, and willingness to help gave me many leads in understanding Fort Chipewyan's history. In this post I will try to recollect some of the conversations we shared.

Jumbo was ten years older than me, so I didn't really have much to do with him when we lived in Chip. I went to the public school with his younger siblings - Hilda, Johnny and Edith come to mind, and of course I remember his mother Mabel who always led the congregation singing hymns. How much his family must miss him. And the town. And his wide circle of friends everywhere....

I was invited to Hilda's thirteenth birthday party, April 13, 1960. I must admit I was a bit in awe of Hilda. Although she was only a year older than me, I was still a kid while she was a developing young woman. She and Jumbo jived in the living room in the Fraser's big house - a wild and crazy performance that blew me away - that man could dance! Another time when I was visiting the Frasers Jumbo ate 22 pancakes, apparently a family record. That morning was the first and only time I tasted beaver tail. Once Jumbo's brother Johnny told me about the last caribou migration through the town, I think it was in 1951. Thirteen-year-old Jumbo ran out into the herd in the yard and brought one down with an ax! My long-lasting memory of Jumbo from my childhood was his enthusiastic friendship with our teacher Sarah. When writing the post about the Public School I phoned Jumbo to ask how to spell her last name, and he told me he is still in contact with her, and then phoned her to check my dates. Typical of him to keep his friends for life. I asked him if he could remember the hallowe'en when my father fired his shotgun to scare off the guys prowling around the teacherage trying to spook Sarah and Alice. He said he heard about that, but wasn't with that pack of boys as by then he already "had his foot in the door..."

I contacted Jumbo several times in the last year. He helped me with the location of Fort Wedderburn on Potato Island, the first public school building in old photographs, who built the Loutit, Fraser, Wylie and Flett houses, the history of Lily's on Wylie, the first Indian Affairs house, the public school moving to Edward Loutit's lot for the Junior Park Wardens, his father Roddy finding Edouard Trippe de Roche sitting on his skidoo in a skiff sunk in the Embarras delta mud, the fire that destroyed the Hamdon & Alley store, and the tragedy of the HBC store burning on New Years Eve, 1950. Jumbo's good friend Victor Mann, his brother Jim Mann and a Bay clerk perished in that fire - their residence was above the store. We had long delightful conversations both by phone and Facebook Messenger. 

I asked Jumbo one time if he knew about N****r Island which I was surprised to see named on a map in Kevin Timoney's book on the Peace-Athabasca Delta. He recalled, in great detail, the US Army docking at the wharf with a barge of Black soldiers enclosed behind a fence. "They kind of scared me," he said, "I had never seen a Black man before." This would have been in the summer of 1942, when the US Army was moving troops to build airstrips to support the Canol project in Norman Wells, so Jumbo was five years old. The US Army built the radio buildings, towers and residences for the Royal Canadian Corp of Signals that summer. He said the white soldiers set up camp in town, but Black soldiers were placed in an island camp two miles down the Rivière des Roches. Every day a few soldiers would leave town on an amphibious "Duck", returning in the afternoon. He waited impatiently for their return as they would give him a tin of rations that opened with a key. He chuckled to remember how much he enjoyed that...

DUKW, also called the Duck, was a 2.5-ton six or eight wheel amphibious truck built by General Motors that was used in WWII by the U.S. Army and Marine Corp. 

This 1942 U.S. Army B ration was likely the treat that Jumbo would have waited for daily...

Jumbo's family has a long connection with Fort Chipewyan, the fur trade and the HBCo. His great great grandfather Colin Fraser Sr. was hired as a piper by Sir George Simpson in Stromness, Scotland in 1827, competing with two others for the job. He brought with him a complete Highland costume and two bagpipes to serve as Simpson's personal piper, accompanying him on fort inspections throughout Rupert's Land. Colin became factor at Jasper's House in 1835 and raised a family with his Cree wife Nancy Beaudry. His son Colin Fraser Jr., Jumbo's great grandfather, moved to Fort Chipewyan with his wife Flora Rowland in 1887. He sold his property in what is now downtown Edmonton and used the proceeds to establish a very successful independent fur trade from his store near Little Island, west of the RC Mission. Their family of seven children married into Flett, Loutit, Wylie, McKay and other local families, making Jumbo proudly related to many of Fort Chipewyan's residents. 

Colin and Flora Fraser with their three daughters Maria, Louise and Mary, two granddaughters and an unidentified woman in about 1910-1920. Note the style of his moccasins. 

Colin Fraser's daughter Louise Wylie beside her house with one of her grandfather's bagpipes. Her son Horace donated these pipes to the Provincial Museum in Edmonton, where they were placed on display.

Colin Fraser Sr's Highland costume and bagpipes made a huge impression on local people. The following is from Through the Eyes of Others, an article on Colin Fraser in Nature Alberta, Winter 2014.

"One white man was dressed like a woman, in a skirt of funny colour. He had whiskers growing from his belt and fancy leggings. He carried a black swan which had many legs with ribbons tied to them. The swan’s body he put under his arm upside down, then he put its head in his mouth and bit it. At the same time he pinched its neck with his fingers and squeezed the body under his arm until it made a terrible noise."

Colin's elder brother John Fraser and his wife Sarah had substantial land in Edmonton on what is now Ada Boulevard. They built a cabin in 1871, and in 1908 added a large house known as the Fraser Mansion. The property was purchased by Concordia College in 1924 after John died. The buildings were being used as residences when I attended Concordia in 1963-65. The cabin, which may be the oldest surviving Edmonton structure, has since been moved to a rural property near Lindbrook. 

In 1926 Jumbo's great great great uncle John Fraser's cabin at my high school was being used as a girls' dormitory. That's the west wing of Concordia College in the background. 

This was Jumbo's family's house when we lived in Chip. He tore it down not long after this July 1980 photo – he said it was hard to heat. The house was built by his grandfather John James Loutit when he was post manager for the HBCo.

This house was owned by Jaunom Flett when I visited in July 1980. It was built by Jumbo's grandfather Colin William Roderick Fraser whose daughter Jenny Flett, Jumbo's aunt, was midwife at his birth and named him because of his large birthweight. Jaunom's father William did all the fur baling for the HBCo when we lived in Chip. 

Taken in July 1980, this was originally Jimmy Fraser's house. Jimmy was Colin Fraser's first son, so Jumbo's great great uncle. Jimmy inherited his father's fur trading business. 

Jumbo was never shy about being in the public eye, as you can see in his Youtube videos:


Jumbo invited me to stay at his B&B Lily's on Wylie which he operated in the house that once belonged to his cousin(?) Lily Wylie, but I postponed the visit for too long.....

Jumbo's funeral was on November 21, 2022 at St. Paul the Apostle Anglican Church in Fort Chipewyan. The service was recorded and posted on his Facebook page, Fred R Fraser. The excellent 18-minute eulogy by Pierre? Peter? ? starts at 38:30. Check it out and hear more about this amazing man's life. 

"The late Fred "Jumbo" Fraser of Fort Chipewyan Métis Nation looks out at the expanse of Lake Athabasca"
From "Lifeblood: Fort Chipewyan's relationship to water", Canadian Geographic,  September 2023.






Tuesday 24 October 2023

Fort Norman (Tulı́t’a) 1955

Among the most recognizable sights on the Mackenzie River, Bear Rock is three miles west of Fort Norman, across the Great Bear River. The HBCo compound is on a bluff overlooking the river. 
Photo by Charles Pineo, taken in July 2013, is from Google Maps. 

In the summer of 1955 Mike "relieved" the Fort Norman HBCo manager Jim Cummings during his biennial vacation. This was at the end of my first year as a day student at Sacred Heart Residential School in Fort Providence. I was excited about our adventure to another town. My grade one classmates in residence were even more excited to be re-joining their families for the summer. Many of them were from downriver, so I thought might run into someone during the summer, but it didn't happen.  

This photo is in front of the Residential School in Fort Providence, in 1955. The priests' house is in the background, and the boys' dorm is second row of windows at the west end of the school building.
These happy kids, all named in the archives, are probably leaving for home soon. Some of them would have been in my class.
Photo from NWT Archives.  

Mom packed up the big blue trunk with clothes for the summer and said goodbye to her garden. When the call came from RCSignals that the plane was close Angus drove us to the airport four miles upriver. The plane looked so big coming in. We took off right over the town, flew over Mills Lake, and followed the river to Fort Simpson where we left mail bags, freight and a few passengers. We took off to the east and turning back I could see the two rivers meet: the pristine Mackenzie with its Great Slave Lake water mixing with the brown mountain water from the Nahanni. This seemed a shame to me, that from here to the Arctic Ocean the river would never be clear again. The clear stream continued on the east shore for a long time before it disappeared. At the Norman Wells airport we were driven in a van to a small lake where we boarded a float plane that flew us to Fort Norman. There was no dock - we walked to the rocky shore of the Mackenzie on a board balanced on the airplane's float.

Fort Norman in 1974. Behind old town is the RCMP,  RC Mission, Indian Affairs, DOT, and the HBCo compound on the high bluff. The Great Bear River joins the Mackenzie just west of the village.
Photo from NWT Archives.

The HBCo compound is on a bluff overlooking the river and old town. Buildings consisted of the store which was right on the edge of the riverbank, two large log warehouses in the traditional hip roof design with dormers, our house in the same layout as in Fort Rae and Fort Chipewyan, the lighting plant and a small greenhouse. There were two large potato gardens that required some care, definitely not the most interesting gardening for Mom. 

The HBCo compound in 1983 with the two old warehouses, manager's house and the store on the riverbank. 
Photo from NWT Archives.

Our house looking west to Bear Rock. The house beyond the fence is RCSignals, where Cpl. and Mrs. Web Wade lived. 

Our house looking northeast from a warehouse window, with the lighting plant, greenhouse and sundial. The brown house behind ours belongs to Indian Affairs, where Mr. Albert & Mrs. Agnes Cotterill lived with their daughters Sharon and Wendy. The building above the lighting plant is the federal day school.

The store from a warehouse window.

The store in August 2016 from Google Earth Street View. 

RCCSignals buildings, with the house of Cpl. Web Wade & Mrs. Wade and the house of Cpl. Harry Baker, Mrs. Baker and their four sons. The building in the centre eventually became Wright's Convenience Store. 

Mom and my sister Tania looking for berries in the bush.

Going on a picnic with the RCMP boat. From the left, Mrs. Baker, my sister Tania (her face is behind Mrs. Timmins' chin), one of the Baker boys, my mother, another Baker boy, me, possibly the wife of the RCMP member, my father holding his hat, and Victor Menacho, RCMP Special Constable. 

Picnic by the river. On left is possibly the wife of the RCMP member, and behind her a woman we can't identify. Mom is in the sleeveless top, next to her is Mrs. Baker, Mrs. Timmins, a Baker boy, and Tania in the white t-shirt. 

Mom and several friends hiked up Bear Rock, scrabbling up the 40 degree slope. The Mackenzie Mountains are on the horizon, with the banks of Little Bear River just visible. 

Fort Norman and Great Bear River from Bear Rock. Mount Clark, elevation 1462 metres, is on the horizon.

Hiker beside the erratic on the ridge. 

 
Lake at the top of Bear Rock. 


Mrs. Timmins, a man I can't remember and Mr. Tim Timmins resting before the hike up the ridge and back down Bear Rock to the river.

Mike and a few friends made a trip to Norman Wells to explore the Canol road. I haven't found his photographs of that trip - if I ever do I will add them to this post. The Canol Project itself deserves its own post - the Mackenzie air fields and radio network developed for the project played a big role in supporting our living in the North.

Two years after publishing this post I heard from Rick Hardy* who was an eight-year old resident of Fort Norman when we were there. He doesn't remember our family that summer as he was with Noel and Harriet Gladu's family at the Bear River Rapids camp where Harriet was camp cook and Noel was a labourer. The camp was run by the NTCL to haul bags of yellowcake uranium ore over the portage around the rapids. Rick remembered many of the people in the photos and very kindly identified them for me, even contacting old acquaintances for help. These are numbered in the next two photos as follows:
  1. Mrs. Baker
  2. Mrs. Timmins
  3. Mrs. Agnes Cotterill
  4. possibly wife of the RCMP member
  5. Mrs. Green, teacher
  6. my mother, Merry Kelpin
  7. Cpl. Harry Baker, RCCS
  8. Fr. Jean Grias, OMI
  9. Mr. Albert Cotterill, Indian Agent
  10. Paul Baton
  11. Gabriel Horassi, who was working for Rick's Uncle George at the time
  12. William Andrew, who was working for Rick's Uncle George at the time
  13. George Gaudet, Rick's uncle
  14. (possibly) Jim McCauley
  15. (possibly) Fr. ? Denis, OMI
  16. Wilfred Lennie
  17. Victor Menacho, RCMP Special Constable
  18. Paul (Mike) Kelpin
  19. Four Baker boys - I played with these boys a lot that summer
  20. Barbara Timmins
  21. Sharon and Wendy Cotterill
  22. me, Brault Kelpin
  23. Tania Kelpin

Crowd meeting the plane and seeing us off at the end of the summer. I'm in the blue jacket with white collar. The blue trunk is ours. If you recognize anyone else in these photos please let me know...



Just before leaving for Norman Wells. The canvas bags are incoming mail. The aircraft is a DHC-3 Otter, probably one of the two (CF-CZP and CF-CZO) that Canadian Pacific Airlines bought in April 1955 to fly out of Norman Wells. I loved the unique sound of the Otter, a deep pulsing throb that you could often feel and hear before it flew into sight. 



In my research for this post I went through Mom's address book (a 1929 Journal Diary that she used all her life) to find entries for Fort Norman. If you recognize any of these people please let me know. Mr. A. Cottrell is identified as Indian Agent on page 80 of the Fort Simpson Sacred Heart Mission history. 

The local Dene population of Tulı́t’a spoke North Slavey, which was similar but different from the Slavey spoken in Fort Providence. These people are now known as the Sahtú (Great Bear Lake), and live in five related communities - Fort Good Hope (Rádeyı̨lı̨kóé), Norman Wells (Tłegǫ́htı̨), Fort Norman (Tulı́t’a), Fort Franklin (Délı̨ne), and Colville Lake (K'áhbamı̨́túé). During the Second World War men from Délı̨ne and Tulı́t’a were employed by Eldorado Mine on the east shore of Great Bear Lake transporting yellowcake uranium concentrate. The cloth sacks containing the yellowcake powder required physical handling several times going down the Great Bear River, with the workers having no protection. We now know that the powder is extremely toxic to breathe, despite its low radioactivity. More than half of the Sahtú men who did this work have died early of cancer. In addition to this loss to their community, the Délı̨ne people are horrified at the role they played in providing nuclear fuel for the  bombing of Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Village of Widows is a 1999 documentary by Peter Blow on the  Délı̨ne tragedy, and When a Dene Lantern shone in Hiroshima describes the community seeking reconciliation and attending the 1998 peace ceremony in Hiroshima. 


The old town west of the HBCo compound, The two-story wooden house is the Anglican manse, with the roof of the old Anglican church visible behind it. The brown square above the manse is the steeple roof covering the church bell. 

I was very surprised to discover that Google Street View is available for Tulı́t’a. I was able to "walk" the streets in 2016 to see what remains of the 1955 village, identifying buildings and finding photographs. 

The intersection of Bear Rock Drive and Blueberry Hill Drive photographed by Patrick Mahaffey in August 2009, from almost the same location as Mike's slide from 1955. 
Photo from Google Earth.

The old Anglican church, also by Patrick Mahaffey.
One of the oldest structures in the NWT, this was built by Alan Hardisty in 1880. Notice the dovetail corners, manually cut with such precision.
Photo from Google Earth.

I scoured photos in the NWT Archives for a historical perspective on the buildings in the HBCo compound. Here are a few....

HBCo compound in 1930-32.
Photo from NWT Archives.

HBCo compound in 1930-32.
Photo from NWT Archives.

HBCo compound in 1930-32. This appears to be the same sundial as in Mike's 1955 photo.
Photo from NWT Archives.

HBCo compound in 1942, with the Anglican manse and church to the west. The last house on the right belonged to HBCo pensioner Charles Timothy Gaudet, Rick Hardy's grandfather, who died three years before we lived in Fort Norman.
Photo from NWT Archives.

The store in 1964.
Photo from NWT Archives.

Undated photo of the HBCo compound with the buildings as they were in 1955. Mr. & Mrs. Tim Timmins and their daughter Barbara lived in the house in the upper left corner. The brown house with the red roof was the Cotterills, and next door was the Indian Agency clerk.
The Northwest store is now located in the field in the centre of this photo. 
Photo from NWT Archives.

* Richard I. Hardy (Rick) shares heartfelt and very personal stories of his family and growing up Métis in Fort Norman, including his trauma experienced in a Catholic residential school, in his excellent book Mǫ́lazha: (Child of a Whiteman).