A cold morning in 1964, with Courier Air's Helio Courier leaving from the Alberta Forestry airstrip. We tied up the merry-go-round chains and swings to stop the unending clanging during blizzards. |
The same view as above, on full moon on April 30, 1961. This unremarkable photo is a 13-year-old's experiment with night-time film exposure, with not enough light for a meter. At this time Pete's family had moved into the chief factor's house, and installed electricity. You can see the glow in the window, and laundry flapping in the wind. Pete attended the mission school, but we played together quite a bit. Pete has published a Kindle book of his childhood memories, "Outrunning the Wind; Stories of a Métis Boy's Childhood". |
The schoolyard from Monument Hill, with the rear of the chief factor's house. July, 1963. |
Johnny, me and my sister Tania, Hallowe'en 1962. |
Christmas play in the school, 1959. |
Christmas concert, 1959. Can anyone identify these kids? |
Playing tag football - town kids against the mission kids on the field by the school, 1960. From the left, Lloyd, Eugene, Alan and Lester. Roland Harpe is coaching. |
Sonia and my mother at a dance on the government wharf, early summer 1959. Can anyone identify the musicians? |
For the 1960-61 year the public school board hired Miss DeVloo, from Bow Island, and Miss Sorochan. My father Mike was the trustee charged with their hiring, and gave me the job of typing the letters of offer on our old Underwood typewriter. They were vivacious, outgoing, fun-loving young women, fresh out of school. At Hallowe'en that year a few young bucks in town decided to prowl around the teacherage making noises to frighten them. Mike went out in the dark to chase them off, taking his 12-gauge Fox. Shouting at the boys to get out of there, he raised the gun to his shoulder and fired both barrels into the night sky. I can still hear their nervous laughing as they scampered to safety up Monument Hill. Miss DeVloo and Miss Sorochan saved their salaries for a Japan trip, and spent the spring learning Japanese phrases, with lots of laughter. The last I heard of them they were partying in Ceylon (Sri Lanka).
The teacherage at sunrise from my bedroom window, 1962. |
This photo of the season's HBCo fur shipment includes the Chorney's personal effects addressed to Edmonton. Donna tells me that blue trunk is now used for their grandchildren's toys. |
Jim and June Parker were teachers for the 1964-65 school year. Jim's Masters of Arts thesis on Fort Chipewyan, which includes on-site research, represented a move by Canadian historians to study "individual fur trade posts with an emphasis upon the life of their people. This would move the history of the fur trade into the stream of Canadian social history and away from the view that it was simply an aspect of British Empire business history." In his book, Emporium of the North, published 22 years later, he says "My thanks go to the people of Fort Chipewyan, especially Messrs. Roderick Fraser, Paul Kelpin, Frank Ladouceur, Horace Wylie, and Lawrence Yanik, and Noel MacKay and Victor Mercredi, now deceased, whose friendships and assistance during my year at Fort Chipewyan led to a better understanding of my subject." How pleased Jim and my father would have been if they had known that Peter Fidler, who built Nottingham House on English Island, was an ancestor of our family. Jim's life tragically ended in a car crash in 1990 while escorting a reporter through the Bitumont oil sands historic site north of Fort MacKay. See his biography here.
Erna and Bob Luger were teachers for the 1965-66 school year. |
The following is from On the Edge of the Shield: Fort Chipewyan and its Hinterland, UofA Press, John W. Chalmers, editor, page 41. On Mr. Gue's first inspection of the public school, while Mrs. McMaster was principal, he slept in my bedroom. I had to sleep in the storage room.
“I think we can go into Fort Chip now. They’ve stopped going through the ice.”
The voice on the telephone was that of Johnny Mallandaine*, the bush pilot whom I had come to know well since June, 1961, when I began my duties as Superintendent of Northland School Division in the Province of Alberta.Subtle but powerful first impressions crowded in on one another. The long, curved bay, the rounded rock of the low hills, the muted green of the dark spruce trees, silent against the snow all combined to produce a feeling of ancient serenity, modified a trifle by the town immediately ahead of us. The cheery greeting of the grizzled citizen who met us in a battered half-ton truck fulfilled the stereotype of the northern pioneer. The Chinese restaurant to which he took us was typical, however, of a thousand other small-town restaurants in Western Canada, and made me realize I was not entirely divorced from past experience.
As I walked across the drifts to the two-roomed school, a half-buried path was seen here and there. Later, with chuckles, the lady Principal told me of her husband’s vain battle against the ceaseless wind and the drifting snow. He had learned why the people of Fort Chip don’t shovel snow very much. Why bother when the wind provides snow pavement, even if a little wavy?
Returning to the teacherage, I was invited to go to the store on the daily after-school pilgrimage. As we walked along, I noticed a surprising number of modern frame buildings, housing federal or provincial government agencies, or private businesses, in sharp contrast to the ghosts of the past haunting the cairn and log house I had just left.
In the store, a number of Indian people looked with passing curiosity at the new white man with the teachers. After all, white men come and go, but the Indian is there always. Paradoxically enough, it seems that one often gets the feeling of the essential Indian-ness of a place in the white man’s store. The deliberate and seemingly aimless shopping style of the Indian people brings home vividly the reality of different “world views” of white man and Indian.
The building was now used as a residence only. Close by was the more recent school built by Indian Affairs Branch a few years before. The Bishop of the diocese had once reminded people at a meeting that although the school had been built by Indian Affairs, it was really his, since, in law, the building belongs to the person who owns the land upon which it rests. Behind the school, on the log, rounded hills of the most westward part of the Laurentian shield, one could see the steps leading to a small shrine, high on the rock, its silver cross gleaming on sunny days. Once, in early fall, I visited the shrine, and saw, amid late-blooming flowers, a hug outcropping of typical Fort Chipewyan red granite, with scars of the glaciers ridging its face in parallel grooves.
And so, Fort Chipewyan, as I saw it between 1961 and 1964, lay in a setting that poured out impressions of antiquity, differing cultural ways, and the steady press of modern society. A mile from the glacier-scarred rock lay the oil tanks which fed the tugs of the Northern Transportation Company, one symbol of the transition of the town.
In the matter of air transportation, resistance had been felt for many years towards the building of an airstrip by the Department of Transport. Rumour had it that the charter aircraft owners were not anxious to make it possible for scheduled airlines to start calling at Fort chip. Finally, however, about 1963, the Alberta Forestry Service hacked out a short and treacherous airstrip in a hilly place close to their buildings. When the wind blew strongly across the runway, it was a hazardous business to land or take off from the strip. On one occasion, I had the unique experience of being “weathered in” on a clear, bright, but windy spring day in Fort Chipewyan. I whiled away my time reading in detail a copy of the original treaty signed at Fort Chip on July 13, 1899 by Commissioners J. W. Ross and J. A. J. McKenna, and many Indian people whose descendants still live in Fort Chipewyan, bearing names like Mercredi, Ratfat, Tuccaro, Gibbot, and Fraser.
Late in the fall of 1962 the Official Trustee and the Superintendent visited Fort Chip, to find, to their dismay, the teacherage sitting high in the air on its half-finished foundation. Two men could be seen, casually throwing sand, shovelful by shovelful, from the bottom of a huge excavation about eight feet wide and ten feet deep – the trench for the little plastic pipe that would lead to the septic tank. Eventually the job was completed, but the improvements were worth more than the house. However, it certainly made it easier to hire teachers when they could be promised a house with sewer and water.
One of these was the enforcement of compulsory attendance, possible only in formally-established school districts. In 1963, then, was seen a flurry of establishing districts bearing interesting names such as Quatre Fourches, Old Fort Point, and by an arrangement other than coincidence, Solar Eclipse School District. The latter was established by an Order-in-Council passed on the day of the total eclipse of the sun in July, 1963.
Fort Chipewyan – a town in transition. It was been in transition since Roderick McKenzie established the first fort on Old Fort Point, across from the present town. Perhaps all that is different now about the transition is the pace . . . but I am sure that for a long time to come the granite-scarred rock will still be there, and families with names like Tuccaro, Gibbott, Fraser, Mercredi, and Trippe De Roche.
* During the last years of WW2 John Mallandaine flew a P-51K Mustang interceptor for the RCAF, doing daring daylight missions to Germany to protect Lancaster bombers from the Luftwaffe's fighters. See Edmonton Special.
References
Proceedings of the Fort Chipewyan and Fort Vermilion Bicentennial Conference, September 23-25, 1988, Provincial Museum of Alberta:
The Triumph of Trust: Native Self-Government of Educational Services in Northland School Division No. 61, p.161
The History of Education in Fort Chipewyan, Maureen Clarke, p.234
Making Education Work for Fort Chipewyan Natives, Roy Vermillion, p.259